Bold citrus-toned nose with lemon and grapefruit, showing unmistakable elements of briny, sea air and kelp. That same citrus tang, zestiness and vivacity are apparent on the palate, as is that saline note of kelp or sea bamboo. Initial vibrance and animation undergoes a sea change, morphing into a smooth, supple and polished mouthful – almost creamy, courtesy of lees. Ineffably poised, balanced and harmonious with a seamless elegance and texture that goes on for days. Structured and rewarding, nothing is overplayed: the blend remains Chenin Blanc and Colombard, with the latter in ascendancy, unlike 2023. The fruit ripeness is countered by lively, fresh acidity and lees lends length while the subtle maritime notes add an extra dimension. Well-knit and cohesive, this wine will age particularly well.